1960年代的“吃食堂”
<p> 阅读 安德路 的回忆吃窝头的旧事，不由得激发了我的内存往事。回想1961--1967年，我在四中读书，就餐于学生食堂的难忘岁月。从我的博客里摘出来，以飨读者。</p><p> </p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT: medium="medium"=; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; WIDOWS: 2" 0px? -webkit-text-stroke-width: auto; -webkit-text-size-adjust: none; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: WORD-SPACING: rgb(0,0,0); COLOR: normal; LETTER-SPACING: 2; ORPHANS: WHITE-SPACE: 新宋体; medium?><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-SIZE: 14px; COLOR: rgb(70,70,70); LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: simsun, 宋体, sans-serif; TEXT-ALIGN: left">
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">四中大礼堂位于</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>60</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">亩地大小的校园西南一隅，建于</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1935</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">年。南北长东西宽长方形。东侧开门两扇。南门封闭了，好像门额很古朴，四字一行，忘记了。北侧是食堂操作间，东面是小操场</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>—</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">篮球场，两架篮球架。再往东是实验室和图书馆。东南角挨着校办工厂（？）</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">堂而皇之的大礼堂一身二任兼职学生大食堂。饭口是大食堂，大型会议时候是大礼堂。中型规模的会议，学生 和老师站立开会；大型会议啦开学毕业典礼啦上级视察接见啦，一般是学生自带座椅，按班级排座次，来不得半点疏忽。散会自己拿回座椅。有时候，忘记拿回来，恰逢上课铃响了，人倒是准时跑回教室，只能是木呆呆的看着空位子发愣。。。。。。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">一九六一年到一九六七年，我在四中求学（初高中），大部分时间吃饭靠食堂</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>—</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">时称“入伙”。开始入伙是半伙（午餐）后来改为全伙（早午晚三餐）午餐记不得价格了，收粮票</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>4</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">两。一个馒头一个窝头</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>{</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">（每周有一两次米饭，还是机米也就是糙米（当时北京市城里居民户口每月每人只有六斤米票，还是机米。逢年过节才会凭证供给每人</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>2</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">斤“好米”。“好米”</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>--</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">指的是“小站稻”一类的。天津的一个地名</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>--</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">小站</span><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">出的优质稻米。对了，小站是窃国大盗袁世凯发迹前训练新兵的地方，相当于今天的军分区司令吧，地师级？）那时候，小站稻晶莹碧透的饭米粒，令人垂涎三尺。）；</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">全伙早餐三两</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>--</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">一碗粥加一个馒头（有时候是窝头）老腌咸菜一大盘（十人份</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>/</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">按桌配给）；午餐四两</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>—</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">一个馒头一个窝头（每周两次米饭，每次二两）馒头是刀切馒头方方正正的形态，标准粉的质地，偌大的大礼堂也是大食堂空间弥漫着充裕着麦香（全不似如今的雪白的富强粉，不法商贩还用吊白块等等违禁添加物，粉饰增白，日久积蓄中毒伤肝害肾，伤天害理啊）</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">值得一提的是，四中食堂的窝头很有特色，玉米面也叫棒子面。和面制坯，使用铁皮模具，不是用手团成，削平尖顶中间无洞，号称“平顶无眼小窝头”；立体几何学叫圆台（此处省略繁冗的体积计算公式）米饭是大铁盘子蒸就（那时候一切从简欠发达，不兴如今满大街的不锈钢）用铲子一划拉，每人一块。盛菜用的搪瓷大洗脸盆，磕得青一块紫一块的伤痕累累。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">副食呢是素菜为主（却很符合今天的饮食观念）一菜一汤。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">菜：冬天大凡是熬白菜洋葱头土豆子胡萝卜。隆冬，大师傅白大褂大锅熬大白菜大铁锹大抡着出大力流大汗；酷暑，大师傅不穿白大褂赤膊上阵熬茄子煮冬瓜西红柿洋白菜一顿乱炖。。。。。。无冬有夏的共同之处是</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>--</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">盐无限，油不足。堪比“寥若晨星”，如同在星汉灿烂的夏日夜空遥望北斗七星一般。每周一两次肉菜也是有名无实。食谱上叫“肉片黄瓜”肉片和黄瓜片比例不超过</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">：</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>10</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">，具体讲也就一两片肥肉吧。</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">汤：四大木桶高汤，星星点点的飘荡着油花和几粒葱花香菜段。我戏称是“几只黄鹂鸣翠柳”。汤汤水水的携带着木头味油腻味，有人夸张的叫它刷锅水。就是这，动作慢半拍的，还喝不着呢。大师傅两人扁担担来，立足未稳，即刻围拢如饥似渴的我们，疾风扫落叶般的，顷刻见底。不甘心者倾斜着木桶，大铁勺子啧啧有声的㧟个小半勺。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">饭后洗碗很简单了，一拉溜的水管子水泥池子。水龙头一开，哗啦哗啦的一冲一涮了事，洗碗带洗手。奢侈者带块肥皂，一水的“灯塔牌”北京市日化一厂制造，凭证供应。油水本不多，冲冲还算是讲卫生的，更有甚者，下一顿吃饭才想起没洗碗呢，我之谓也。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">逢年过节会餐是朝思暮想的，会有一勺子令人垂涎三尺的红烧肉，一两块鲜香红润的红烧带鱼，几个滴溜溜圆的肉丸子，只够永远吃不饱的正在长架子膥个儿半大小子的我们塞牙缝的，打打牙祭而已。平时有人病事假缺席，大家就理直气壮的瓜分他的饭菜，除非事先报告才可以退钱退粮票。改善伙食（今称“腐败“）日子里没人缺勤，满额。就是发烧感冒卧床不起的缺课者，也会“闻鸡起舞”专门跑来解馋，“誓死不退伙”。我们自嘲是“架子猪”光长架子不长肉，豆芽菜体型的居多，哪像如今大比例群体中比比皆是的超重的胖墩儿。其时，“三月不识肉味”肉类很香，京郊养猪人喂猪用的红薯玉米面，掺杂部分大路菜（高中时到海淀区永丰屯公社劳动拔麦子，亲见农户喂猪）。尚无注水肉啊瘦肉精啊三聚氰胺啊那么损人利己的高科技。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">每临饭口时节，空旷冷清的大食堂顿时人声鼎沸，学生流熙来攘往的。几百人围就餐桌嗷嗷待哺。木制餐桌榫卯不济嘎嘎悠悠，每十人一桌，很像是横平竖直的棋盘格，也像是</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>Excel</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">里的单元格。每桌设立值日生，有两个人负责去操作间打饭菜（一人端饭盆，一人端菜盆）食毕负责送回。大食堂不设座椅，体现着节俭的原则。如同现而今的大规模酒会，不设座位，来宾或站立或走动交流。</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal"><font size="4">吃饭的架势文武有别。武吃者，围桌站立，狼吞虎咽的对付着粗茶淡饭，风卷残云，速战速决。一粥一饭来之不易，绝少剩饭菜的（如今，不说餐馆就是内部食堂也是剩饭菜狼藉，暴殄天物啊）；文吃者，三三两两屹立在南墙根慢条斯理的边吃边聊。尤其是晚秋初冬，沐浴着温暖和煦的阳光，不一会面颊沁出些许油汗，暖洋洋怎一个爽字了得。</font></span></b></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">顺便说说大师傅。有位豹眼虎睛矮小敦实的女师傅，好事者叫她“孙二娘”但是待人和气，有点像是契科夫笔下唠唠叨叨的厨娘。也许是近水楼台之故，大师傅们很少瘦骨嶙峋。尽管来自穷山僻壤，大多光头净脸，壮硕的身躯，操练起大铁锹炒大锅菜亚赛是转世张翼德挥舞丈八蛇矛威武雄壮。馒头出笼恰似腾云驾雾，大老远的您就闻到大食堂特有的味道</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>-</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">笼屉味儿。</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">对了，我记得全伙是每天三毛四分钱，每月按二十五天算，合计八元五角钱。【参考值：在那“物价稳定</span><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">市场繁荣”的年代里，</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1971</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">年我被招工，学徒工每月十六元薪水。三年后出师一级工</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>30.50</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">元月薪（区级工厂偏低）。街上一般的饭馆里，家常菜辣子肉丁是三毛四分钱，例盘六寸盘吧。职工食堂里红烧肉两毛钱一小碗，家境好的青工舍得花钱。有家小的师傅们还舍不得吃，自己带饭菜省钱啊。到了</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1974</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">年，我二级工月薪</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>35.50</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">元。饭馆一个货真价实的“油闷大虾”</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>4.20</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">元。直到</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1982</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">年我大学毕业，成为“国家干部”，月薪才长到</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>56</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">元。】</span></b></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN-TOP: 0cm; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0cm; TEXT-INDENT: 20.65pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0cm; LIST-STYLE-TYPE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" 0px? 0px; normal; PADDING-TOP: BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: WORD-BREAK: BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: WORD-WRAP: PADDING-RIGHT: PADDING-LEFT: 0pt; 0cm="0cm" 0cm?><font size="4"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1961</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">年正是“三年自然灾害”（</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>1959—1961</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">）刚刚结束，人们普遍营养不良，缺吃少穿的。有一阶段，学校半日课，免除体育课程（节省体力）一个下午，我和同学去王府井新华书店，顺道逛了东安市场。半露天的市场里，簇拥着“爆肚冯”“年糕张”“豆腐脑白”之流北京名小吃店铺招牌。看到排队卖五香花生米，我也凑热闹买了一小包。每人限购一份，两角钱大约二两多吧。旧报纸包装成圆锥体。手捻酥脆外皮，边走边吃，香到了姥姥家了</span><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" xml:lang="EN-US"><font style="WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; WORD-WRAP: normal" face="Times new=" Roman? New?>—</font></span></b><b><span style="COLOR: red; WORD-BREAK: normal; LINE-HEIGHT: 21px; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; WORD-WRAP: normal">久违了。吃一粒香一口，只吃得齿颊留香，回味绵长，至今难忘。当时心里话，要是花生米随便吃天天吃该多好呀！其时，一般春节才凭证供应每人半斤炒花生（带壳儿的）三两炒葵花子儿。</span></b></font></p></span></span>
1960年代的“吃食堂”
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>安德路</i>在2011-2-18 18:46:00的发言：</b><br/><p>写的真翔实！读罢，有要落泪的感觉。</p>
<p>71年16元工资，知道。记得我街坊和您一个单位的宁哥，就时常抱怨。说辛辛苦苦上一个月才开16块，所以印象非常深刻。</p>那个时代真苦害人！ </div>
<p>您说的那位 宁哥 我印象有。学徒工就是月薪16元。我第一个月是16日报到，才拿半个月的8元啊。</p>
<p>低物价低工资，高就业，无福利（发个手套啊，肥皂啊，三年一套劳动布工作服啊，唔得。）</p>
1960年代的“吃食堂”
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>董瑞征</i>在2011-2-18 20:17:00的发言：</b><br/><font size="5" face="楷体_GB2312"> 和您有相似的经历，看着挺亲切。有未完待续的感觉。</font> </div><p>多交流 多关照 多提意见 </p>
<p>谢谢</p>
<p>戛然而止，我是应该续写的。</p>
<p> </p>
1960年代的“吃食堂”
<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>三联儿</i>在2011-2-18 20:39:00的发言：</b><br/>那时候以“分”标价的商品多了去了 </div><p>对，标准粉 0.185元 一斤 凭当月面票 购买</p>
<p>精确到厘。分的十分之一。</p> 那时候以“分”标价的商品多了去了
董瑞征
<font face="楷体_GB2312" size="5"> 和您有相似的经历，看着挺亲切。有未完待续的感觉。</font> <p>写的真翔实！读罢，有要落泪的感觉。</p><p>71年16元工资，知道。记得我街坊和您一个单位的宁哥，就时常抱怨。说辛辛苦苦上一个月才开16块，所以印象非常深刻。</p>那个时代真苦害人！ 那时我们有一首打油诗：亲爱的党我的妈、十六块钱不够花、你的儿子肚子大、多给两块花花吧。 往事不如烟，挥之不去。
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