胡同童年 发表于 2006-5-16 23:51:00

[转帖]甑儿糕

<p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt; TEXT-ALIGN: center;"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">甑(赠</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">的音)儿糕</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><p></p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><font face="Times New Roman">&nbsp; </font></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">知道这种小食品名称的人,至少得五十岁开外的北京的人,这个名称是老叫法。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><p></p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt;"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">小贩挑一副担子,一端是炉火,上座一口铁锅,锅盖似当今的压力锅,不过那减压阀是一根三、四寸长的铁管,管的顶端有一个圆铁槽,装一个木制的形似小花盆的模子。担子的另一端是个小柜厨,抽屉内装有大米粉、果酱、糖桂花等。操作时先将米粉往木模内铺一层,再点入少许果酱,上面有铺一层米粉,盖好放在铁槽的篦子上,利用锅内热气将米粉蒸熟,锅旁立一根小木桩,将木模套在管上一戳,那木模底自然托出一块热乎乎的馅米糕,松软香甜,糕内有蜂窝状小孔,为老人幼儿适宜的小食品。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><p></p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt;"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">甑儿糕随做随卖,主顾可随时吃到热乎乎的米糕。没主顾时,小贩便将一个小哨套在锅上的铁管上,锅内的热气一催,小哨便“嘟――”响起来,代替吆喝。那时只要一听到门外有哨声,便知道卖甑儿糕的过来了。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><p></p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 27pt;"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">老北京人根据甑儿糕的操作,日久形成了老北京人才知道的歇后语“甑儿糕的徒弟――一屉顶一屉”。比喻新旧交替连绵不断。如今这种小食品断档五十来年了,因而听懂这句歇后语的人自然不多了。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><p></p></span></p><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt;">          ――摘自《老北京的街头巷尾》</span>
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