我知道的西单手帕胡同
<P ><FONT size=3>我知道的西单手帕胡同</FONT></P><P ><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>北京的手帕胡同有好几条<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>崇文门外<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>东直门内<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>西直门内<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>西单<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>都叫手帕胡同<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>只有广安门外叫手帕口<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>别的手帕胡同我没去过<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>但是在西单手帕胡同<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>我住了近五十年<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>只因拆迁才不得不搬走<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>想起在胡同里住的日子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>深深的怀念那西单繁华的市景<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>神秘的王府<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>深宅大院<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>和那时令季节阵阵飘香又一顺的爆羊肉<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>烧羊肉<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>涮羊肉<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>真是令人馋涎欲滴<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>我是<FONT face="Times New Roman">1952</FONT>年由宣武门外的上斜街香山慈幼院搬到了东边的永光寺街<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>没住几个月又搬到了西单手帕胡同<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一直到拆迁搬走<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那时我刚刚上学<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>从上斜街的慈善小学<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>私立<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>转到了长安街上的正元小学还是私立的学校<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那是一座小教堂改为学校<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>因为那大教室的玻璃是五颜六色的<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>旁边就是两座高耸的双塔俗称双塔寺<FONT face="Times New Roman">,.</FONT>因为我上学时年纪太小<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>市立小学不要<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>只能上私立小学<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>在这所学校上了也就一年<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>由于长安街的扩建<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>我们的学校也在拆迁之内<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这才有机会把我转入市立的横二条小学<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那时的长安街扩建很是壮观<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>西单的头条胡同没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>报子街和旧刑部街中间的住家全都拆迁<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一部分去了幸福村<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一部分去了和平里<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>还有永安里等地方<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时刚开工就是修下排水道<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>全靠人力<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>挖下水道沟都是一锹锹往下挖<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>象接力似的<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一人一个台阶从底下向上扔土<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>挖好了沟下管子<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>下水道的大管子有一人高<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>也是靠人力没有吊车<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>用大绳往下放很有意思<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>直到参加工作后遇到类似的活<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>我也模仿人家用绳子放物件<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时也没有夯土机<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>十个人全拉绳子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>绳子那头是个大铁饼<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一个人喊号子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>一齐把铁饼扔上去<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>再落下来<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>把地夯实<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那真是热火朝天<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>非常的热闹<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那时我年纪小<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>特别愿意在那里看热闹<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那时的拆迁我也经常跑去看热闹<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>双塔寺拆完了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>塔基露出来了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>里面是一个六边形的空室<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>至今我也没弄明白<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>为什么里面是用四根铁索悬着吊着一个盒子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>有人下梯子把那盒子拿了上来<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>人们说那里盛的是和尚的骨灰<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>没打开就送走了<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>以后长大了才知道这双塔寺是怎么回事<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT></FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>长安街扩宽了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>双塔寺没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>长安街的牌坊没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>老字号没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>如东北角的天福号酱肘肉没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>文革后又恢复了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>西南角的同懋增文具纸店没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这个纸店很有名<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>民初紫禁城内阁大库的挡案没有用<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>装了三千麻袋卖给了同懋增纸店<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>他们准备回收再做纸<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>此事被清末以民初的学者罗振玉知道后<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>他和王国维一起挑出了一部分自已用<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>剩下的被民国政府知道后<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>也给买回<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>鲁迅先生带着一些学生在午门上整理这些挡案<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这些学生后来都成了清史专家<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>为什么罗振玉先知道此事呢<FONT face="Times New Roman">?</FONT>这同懋增的掌櫃的是罗振玉的本家亲戚<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>就住在手帕胡同<FONT face="Times New Roman">11</FONT>号<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>老门牌七号<FONT face="Times New Roman">),</FONT>那是一座小四合院<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>没有南房<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>哥俩住一个院<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>西北角的是一家糖果店<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>人称葫芦满家<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>他们家在手帕胡同<FONT face="Times New Roman">19</FONT>号住<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>老门牌九号<FONT face="Times New Roman">),</FONT>公私合营后房子归公了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>直到改革开放后期<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>才落实政策退还给他家<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>说起来也很有意思<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>没钱想钱<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>可是落实政策给面子钱了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>由于家里哥仨个分不匀<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>至今这钱也没人领<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>后来这里还是卖糖果点心<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>再就卖服装<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>再后来改为金店了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>直到被拆除<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>西单的东南角最热闹<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>几次拆迁都没有大动<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>从西向东荷兰糖果店<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>大地俄式餐厅<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>长安大戏院<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>庆丰包子铺<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>天源酱园<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>康乐游艺场<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>土产杂货铺<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>银行<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>首都体育用品店<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>仙宫理发店<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>鸿宾楼<FONT face="Times New Roman">,……</FONT>南面的基本末动<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>直到地震大地餐厅荷兰的房子才拆了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>重新修了一座二层小楼<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>还是卖糖果点心<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>再就是到了修长安街地铁时<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>长安大戏院又被拆除<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>糖果店也没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>后来不知为什么把庆丰包子铺重新开张了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>说起来这庆丰包子铺是我们院里北屋汤婶婶的父亲开的铺子<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>天津狗不理包子好吃<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>您好如果吃了庆丰的包子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>也不过如此<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>过去家里来客人为了快一些<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>直接去庆丰买几斤包子<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>那时油水少<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>吃的多<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>再买一锅小豆粥<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>顺便去天源买点酱菜<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>齐活<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>非常方便<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>现在南面一拉溜的店铺全没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>名称还能找得到<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>只是不在这里了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>正是由于扩建长安街的原因<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>同春园搬到了同懋增纸店的南面<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>原来是一个印刷厂<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>再往南是又一顺<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>可能因回民饭馆的原因<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>和汉民饭馆挨得太近了不方便<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>所以又一顺南迁了几十米<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>还是在手帕胡同口南<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>后门还在手帕胡同口内和同春园后门相对<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>过去的又一顺<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>门脸很破烂<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>只的两间门脸房<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>进深还可以<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时卖东西都出摊在街上卖<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>秋天卖烧羊肉<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>爆羊肉在家里就能闻到<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那真是馋涎欲滴<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>最有意思的是那时的人真的很规矩<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>像到了时令季节<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>如春节又一顺蒸年糕坨<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>蒸好了要在苇萡上凉着<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>从胡同口一直凉到我家屋后面<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>白天黑夜人来人往楞是没有人偷拿<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>要是现在<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>大白天的就能抢没了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>说不定我就得拿<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>因为我不拿别人也拿<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>为什么我不拿呢<FONT face="Times New Roman">?</FONT></FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>说了半天胡同还没说呢<FONT face="Times New Roman">!</FONT>进了胡同南边就有三个门再往里是王府的地界了大屋高墙<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>里面很神秘<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>我记得小时候从墙边的电线杆子爬上墙头<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>去勾桑葚吃<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>墙里面住的是解放军<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时的军队纪律严明<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>逢年过节都出来打扫院落<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>洒水扫街<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>挑水帮助老百姓干活<FONT face="Times New Roman">.,</FONT>等到七十年代就没有这些活动了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时的孩子们和我一样淘气<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>照样上墙头摘桑葚<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这时的桑树很大了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>结的也多<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>孩子也多<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那棵桑树倒霉了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>最后被锯断刨根了事<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>再也没有孩子上墙了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>那时墙里面是公安总队里面有礼堂<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>经常演出或者演电影<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>那时还送给街坊们票看演出<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>后来再就没有来往了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>借着看电影<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>和演出的机会我也溜进前院去观光<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这里是敬瑾亲王府<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>门前是一对大石狮<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>然后是八字墙<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>五开间的大门<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>门口有哨兵站岗<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>对面有大影壁<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>进院是一座大殿<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>后面也是一座大殿中间有廊子相连<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>据说这是北京城内所有王府内唯一存在的工字型的建筑<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>更甭说那廊子的雕花窗棂和壁板了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>现在全都不复存在<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>过去王府西边是花园<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>有假山竹子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>亭子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>后来也给拆掉<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>改为离退休老干部的小别墅了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>对着王府绣楼<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>二层<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>后面的是<FONT face="Times New Roman">21</FONT>号<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>旧门门是<FONT face="Times New Roman">11</FONT>号<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>这里是龚自珍的旧居这是一座有三进院落的典型的四合院<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>西边是花园<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>道光皇帝亲笔题<FONT face="Times New Roman">”</FONT>福<FONT face="Times New Roman">”</FONT>字刻在影壁上<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>这里去二龙坑的郑王府那是很近的<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>传说龚自珍先生有些不检点<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>差点出了事<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>只好出京躲避<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>出了沙窝门<FONT face="Times New Roman">(</FONT>广渠门<FONT face="Times New Roman">)</FONT>才作的这首好诗曰<FONT face="Times New Roman">:</FONT>浩荡离愁白日斜<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>吟鞭东指即天涯<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>落红不是无情物<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>化作春泥更护花<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>可惜的是这座四合院现已在新盖的大楼之下了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></FONT></P>
<P ><FONT size=3>当我再经过西单时<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>尤其是看到西南角时<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>说不出心里是何滋味<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>高兴的是我终于住上楼房了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>没有冬天寒冷之苦<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>也没有了受烟熏火燎之罪<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>也不用去买煤搬煤<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>生炉子<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>倒炉灰了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>真是方便舒服<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>可是几十年的老街坊没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>在楼里真是一个封闭型<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>胡同里的亲情这里没有了<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>也看不到了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>怎么说呢<FONT face="Times New Roman">?</FONT>是捡了芝麻丢了西瓜<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>还是捡了西瓜丢了芝麻<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>还是西瓜芝麻什么都不能丢<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT>我也不知道是怎么办好了<FONT face="Times New Roman">.</FONT></FONT></P> 没病找病老师的很多经历,我们这代人是没"福分"经历了,不过今年到是拿掌柜的大褂在那里拍了张照片. 欢迎啊！没病先生。有机会当面见教。 初来乍到,请多多关照!多多指教! 没病老师别客气,欢迎您常来. <P>羡慕啊，有过那么多美好的回忆。。。。。</P><P>想也可以想象到当年的景象，繁华。。。。。。。</P><P>有时间您多讲讲有关西单附近的历史，沧桑岁月，我家就住西单这片儿。。。。</P> <P><a href="http://www.photobeijing.com/bei%20jing%20men%20lou/shoupa%20no.21-002.jpg" target="_blank" >http://www.photobeijing.com/bei%20jing%20men%20lou/shoupa%20no.21-002.jpg</A></P>
<P>这是手帕胡同老门牌11号拆迁时的照片.</P>
[此贴子已经被作者于2005-12-31 17:16:29编辑过] 看了,心痛啊. 很多美好的记忆封存了。不敢拿出来。哎。。记忆过往 <p><span style="COLOR: #cc0033;">我有一个梦<span lang="EN-US">,一个永远不会实现的梦...</span></span></p><p><span style="COLOR: #cc0033;">让时间倒流<span lang="EN-US">,回到我的童年,回到我曾经住过的,"胡同里的家"....</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span lang="EN-US"><font face="Times New Roman"> <p></p></font></span></p> 顶,就一个字! 再顶出来给师兄看。 <strong><font color="#ff00ff" size="6">哈哈，真是太巧了，俺屋大人3年前的今天正好回复了这个帖子啊，今天又翻出来了，好玩！！！时间真快啊！！</font></strong>
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