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$ R4 V. }& t$ O3 A! ^9 Smso-fareast-language:EN-CA">总统白灯去中国访问，展现亲民风范。在鼓楼东大街的一家小饭馆吃炸酱面等北京民间食品。这让俺们老北京人很有点受宠若惊的感觉。自从太祖毛爷占京为王，红朝六十年间哪个有名有姓的红朝宦官曾吃过老北京的民间食物啊？毛爷本人吃过东西南北的各种食物，就俺所看过的不计其数的各种回忆，还没有披露过毛爷试过任何老北京人的民间食品呢。即便那位一贯关心民间疾苦的周相也不曾有过品尝老北京民间食品的记录。人民大会堂从它的使用功能上，就是一5 P) _# H* t/ I! X* I& J
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">人民大食堂。9 Q D& ^+ ?7 l+ X7 Wfont-family:"Times New="New" Roman","serif";mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";7 ~% R V0 L/ |8 T" ^6 [9 c
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mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">自然，当年俺0 i# N& V- T& r2 O% b. A"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">们老北京人是不可能进去吃喝的。那是给红朝宦官们吃喝，招待外国政要9 J* |! I' \1 U' Z
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">么。红朝宦官们吃喝玩乐之后，走出来看到满街人群仰望着人大会堂，满脸肃穆。那才是我们老北京人的真正历史角色么：群众若干人。人家吃，咱们看。那年头总说雄伟的天安门，壮丽的广场，全国人民仰望北京，好像咱老百姓多齐心跟着共产党似的。其实咱全国人民心里想象着大官们吃什么，顺便咽几口唾沫，肚子里咕噜几声罢了。即使想象，俺们老北京人的想象力也很可怜。小时候，俺胡同里蹬三轮车的王二爷经常指着人大会堂说，人家那里吃山珍海味满汉全席。说完，还从鼻孔里哼出一声/ w' B0 }+ w& U+ T! I( X
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">这句话让俺记忆深刻。那王二爷苦大仇深，一个胡同串子' ~$ J4 X' v+ Kmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
# j: t2 _7 l) V. I- Amso-fareast-language:EN-CA">，自然不可能吃5 _& y: e" P& O% i. }$ p- J5 k
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">过也不可能知道满汉全席的菜谱。大概是祖辈相传，听人一说，过过干瘾罢了。从此，在俺的心里形成一个想法，吃宴席要吃满汉全席才是最丰盛最高档的。至于满汉全席的内容，如何炮制烹调，如何品吃，俺是在长到中学之后，看红楼梦一类的书籍才慢慢知道的9 r6 L/ n0 U' y% J. Q
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">红朝宦官们不吃老北京民间食品的原因不是别的，就是它们太大众化，用的都是廉价食物原料，或者大户人家用剩的原料，比如动物内脏等。老北京的任何有钱人家，甚至小康的中等人家，应该是不屑于在大街上吃这些食品的。不过，这话这么说，要有个时间限制。在民国时期，可能如此。那时候，老北京的大户人家尚有积蓄，甚或民间百姓中殷实人家也不少。而红朝立都北京后，经过各种政治运动摧残，老北京大户人家迅速凋零，家产散尽。在我有记忆的六十年代后期开始，北京各种食品供应紧张，几乎家家勉强糊口，有什么吃什么。谁也不可能摆谱，挑剔食品原料，继续讲究食物质量了。换句话说，形成贵族习惯和文化的物质基础被毛爷给刨掉了。人一穷下来，那就顾不得面子只能顾里子了 Q7 q5 p' ~6 j9 i( o9 tmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";) j9 c) H l8 D; \. J
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">老北京大( p6 K8 L# S1 o- X% }3 ifont-family:"Arial Unicode="Unicode" MS","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
8 n( ~: P" B% `: Ymso-fareast-language:EN-CA">户人家吃东西讲究食品原料要好。这从许多有关回忆中可以看到。记得小时候爷奶过节时候喜欢吃涮羊肉。后来我看有人写文章说那羊肉不是随便抓一只羊就行的。必须是从口外（张家口）赶过来的绵羊涮来才最好吃。吃这种羊肉也要有季节。得是十月后羊抓完膘，也就是吃完夏天青草后4 X1 X' P7 e6 P1 ?
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">脑满肠肥' Q% C& n/ x* U" p4 \$ {/ L
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* b# j3 ]' Y6 T* b9 G, y$ Pmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">的二年羊才行。羊太老太嫩都不行。" u8 \9 [5 _4 r
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">卖肉的店）上有羊肉就不容易了，哪里还有精力问这是哪来的羊啊？再说老北京人喜欢的滑溜里脊，这道菜的确好吃。我从小不吃猪肉，那是平常时候。真的不吃。一闻到猪肉就恶心，无法接着吃饭。每年春节前后，家里做好吃的，一般会有一道滑溜里脊。我也能跟着吃几口。鲜嫩的里脊肉没有多少猪肉的肥腻味儿了。只要用料讲究，就能做出好菜嘛8 {6 X9 O% B& A& w
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">爷的北京政府给俺们每户发一个副食本，一月给二两肉。到了肉铺，那师傅把刀一拉，连皮带肥肉。这肉，什么像样的菜也作不了，只能炒一下就青0 S" [6 U5 q! i. G+ m+ Z' }; x* O9 l4 P; Fmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
2 `" V/ |& o3 b% N$ bmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">菜吃了。想吃滑溜里脊？您等到春1 p( j! M1 \+ n$ N2 xfont-family:"Arial Unicode="Unicode" MS","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";4 t" j# O4 H# V9 g' F5 x1 t% [
mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">节再说吧。一口猪就那么一条里脊肉，可满身肥肉和猪皮么。就这，您还不能放开吃呢。一月才二两肉，党还总提醒，咱们过着社会主义幸福生活啊。现在的三十岁以下的年轻人是难以理解我们在六七十年代的物质贫乏精神空虚的3 h. _5 _& q3 L2 J+ x
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">说起北京炸酱面，正好上个星期我还被赠送了一道北京炸酱面。送朋友回家路过一家韩国华侨开的饭店。里面的招牌菜，除去炒马面外，就有这北京炸酱面。朋友是南方人，不知道为什么好像喜欢这炸酱面，以为是多好的北京食品。送俺一道炸酱面。让俺真的是哭笑不得。这炸酱面是老北京最) \- G2 [! v. ]8 pmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";0 Z% U$ z! \5 L/ H6 `$ }
mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">平民化的食物。小2 N5 Z0 Q& X% b; |! o. ?7 i3 Xfont-family:"Arial Unicode="Unicode" MS","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
1 e; P4 ]0 E& F( J& bmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">时候，胡同里吃炸酱面的家，十有八九是没别的东西可做了，才祭出这炸酱面过日子。老北京人请客，除非是很熟悉的老友，不拘礼节，把你作为自己哥们姐们的，不见外，才让你吃炸酱面。意思是情谊，食物还在其次。若是一般朋友上门，请人家吃炸酱面，肯定把人得罪了。那炸酱面算什么东西啊？吃完炸酱面，他出门就会嘟囔着，请不起客就别硬撑着。拿炸酱面糊弄谁啊？所以，俺那朋友以为炸酱面是什么好东西。其实，俺从小吃多了，吃腻了。直到现在，不小心打个特号大嗝儿，还能从胃里翻腾出早年的炸酱面味儿呢。什么好东西一吃多少年的话，谁/ ~" x1 e4 G8 C, g1 S
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9 I) D! L6 ^) E$ n, K% ~mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">。" v( w2 G$ v- v# G( d( p"MS Mincho";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA"> " a+ ?+ {8 x; Y+ F
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6 M! Y+ B+ w5 t4 i7 [) s( \+ D, lmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">酱面不是什么技术活儿。面条部分，要自己合面，面疙瘩越硬越好。擀面时候，把面团擀成薄厚均匀的大面片。再对上干面粉，码成几层。下刀切面是个技术活儿。切出的面条儿要粗细均匀，一刀开始一气呵成，刀停后一抖落，立马成为面条。面和的硬，才能入口有筋道儿。炸酱面部分更简单。买一斤黄面酱。切点五花肉丁，肥肉还要多点。先把肉丁在热锅里翩一会儿出油。等丝丝作响后，锅热油热肉丁基本熟了，放入葱花，闻到香味儿把黄面酱放进，不停地搅合防止粘锅。再放点水搅稀些。小火熬一会儿，咕嘟冒泡了就大功告成了。之后，还要准备% z7 E; `, W3 S
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">酱做好后，把黄瓜切丝，洒在面条上，这才开嘴呲牙享受一顿炸酱面。不常吃的话，吃几次还真吸引人的食欲。面条，炸酱，黄瓜丝的香味扑鼻。从做法上，可以看出是一道家常吃法。没有什么昂贵的原料。肉丁可以是任何部位的猪肉。连猪皮都可能处理一下冒充猪肉放进去。按民间常用的一大碗炸酱面算，成本不会超过( }* V8 l# r7 [- r {
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">七十年代中期的二三毛2 S& I- `5 W9 @0 m$ \6 e
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( O7 D `+ o Z. s8 @1 o) p* R& pmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">钱。一小块肉一家子吃，一人一筷子就吃完了。做成炸酱面可以吃几天/ \7 g4 C1 m# \* _
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* T" T$ [" f% M, |, _4 A7 ~( mmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">这不能再无产阶级化的炸酱面，俺小时候还不能吃呢。不是俺家吃不起，而是俺不吃猪肉。肉丁肉末全不能吃% D+ E8 ~5 G5 t* c- m( o) F
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">这奇怪的毛病，不知道啥时候传染的。毛爷死前那时候，皇城根儿边上的北京百姓过的并不比皇城根儿外边的好多少。穷成那样子，啥也没得吃，俺还是不吃猪肉。爷奶没法子，给俺做豆腐干炸酱，加进炒鸡蛋末，也算一碗炸酱面。吃了几次后，俺对炸酱开始过敏了。闻不得那味道儿。这次爷奶索性给俺吃麻酱面。从那以后，俺吃面只吃麻酱面，和炸酱面无缘了。麻酱面的名气自然不如炸酱面的大。基本上是素面，没有荤腥么。那里面更没有什么技术含量了。把芝麻酱和稀，放进细盐，您就可以开吃了* D- f1 q4 ? `+ F7 N+ K* imso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">这次去鼓楼那边吃东西，可惜没给他灌点豆汁儿。那才是老3 V2 V6 _& z: W* `4 d5 imso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
O% f8 v O2 j; i% L* C$ L; Imso-fareast-language:EN-CA">北京正宗的) A* x; v( a- K; F. `! V
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* g: d% L+ a; P! j4 y1 vmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">饮料呢。论历史，要比什么可口可乐长多了。我对那东西真的是讨厌。父亲那时候喜欢喝这东西。隔三差五的就去住家附近的清真小吃店来一碗。带我去的时候，让我喝。灰不溜秋的，闻着就酸。喝一口，还挺苦，涩口。据说老北京人，自然起码是父母那一代人了，全好这一口儿，跟现代人喝可乐一样普及。豆汁儿这玩意实在是不登大雅之堂的民间食物。从原料为下脚料到味道儿苦涩，虽然是老北京食物的代表之一，可也绝对是贫苦无奈的象征。我觉得要是小胡同学跟白灯谈判遇到困难的话，给老家伙灌一碗豆汁儿，我打保票他受不了这口饮料，以为小胡在折磨他8 Y7 |6 @* I5 N9 B6 |mso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";4 k5 E( ?8 e4 L0 z
mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">呢。可惜啊，* c0 @( Q5 k# Y" ?1 H$ ?, w
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">这次白灯没点豆汁儿这道北京名饮。不过么，过去做豆汁儿是货真价实的下脚料，起码没人给你掺什么。现在欺骗成风的年代，搞不好有人给玩个: i# I$ N( J O"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">“! @, ?+ Q) P* r
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mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">也# z0 o& U6 O8 e+ o"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">绝对可能的。那天看到报道说镇江香醋居然是工业醋精对上水和色素，不再是米做的。吓得俺当时就把家里二瓶镇江香醋给扔了。换成山西老陈醋，吃了几天。心里再生狐疑：这东西照样可以兑成么。山西人虽然蔫头蔫脑，土里土气的，可是满肚子坏水儿比江苏人不会少多少的。没办法，想爱国也得先保护健康么。随后，俺换成日本醋了9 u, R' {: P: I& cmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
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, X4 w+ u* B$ C+ R$ x+ ?) lmso-fareast-language:EN-CA">实承认。俺们北京作为几代皇城，给俺们留下5 E3 P$ q) Y0 n: G) d ~7 [8 Q/ C16.0pt;font-family:"MS Mincho";mso-ascii-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";2 T; ~, i" `! x) q( ~* {
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3 _7 s% b3 G3 A# ]mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">不少好看的4 V$ @) T. g3 Y/ T- {" k J4 Tfont-family:"Arial Unicode="Unicode" MS","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman"; n. t1 y" z/ R# ^
mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">东西。基本上以皇家宫殿和园林为主。至于吃的方面上，只有王公和有钱人家府里才能吃上好东西，用得起好厨子。北京有几家老字号的饭店能点些滑溜之类的东西。要说小吃么，真的只有那几样绝对无产阶级们才吃的下脚料了。灌肠，炒肝，芥末墩儿，卤煮火烧，这些东西，怎么能和麻辣香的川菜，清淡的江浙菜，注重新鲜原味的广东菜比呢？唉，俺们北京有东西给全国人民看，可真的没东西给全国人民吃啊。起码，俺喜欢的另一道北京打卤面，很多中国人民还不知道么6 R/ a4 q% { P2 R. T$ smso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">别以为北京人就喜欢炸酱面。哪天有空给大家侃侃满汉全席。叫你们知道啥叫博大精4 R. Y3 u4 y$ b1 p% J; |8 v4 qmso-hansi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New="New" Roman";
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mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">历史悠久物产丰富人文荟萃/ X2 b1 v y, Z- I C( `* f8 R
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"Times New="New" Roman";mso-fareast-language:EN-CA">简而言之，王府商贾的内府菜没有流传下来。这些老北京胡同菜倒被人常唠叨。造成外地人以为俺们北京就有炸酱面呢: _5 E. M( B' G4 k" v7 |: e8 P' v4 ^; k, L
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发表于 2011-8-22 09:31:00