元大都城垣乱逛记
<p>五一闲暇无事，抽出半日时光，寻访大都旧垣，作游记一篇，以文代酒，与诸君对酌。</p><p> </p>
<p> <img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn052/20110511/0900/b_large_lyFu_5ad80006d8dc5c3f.jpg"/></p>
<p>一、背景介绍：</p>
<p>公元14世纪，明军攻陷大都，蒙元残余势力盘踞草原，威胁大明政权北部边境。出于战略考虑，明将徐达主持改造大都，将北城墙南移五华里，至今北二环一带。大都北部三分之一的面积从此废弃，历经七百年风雨，逐渐坍塌为土垄，是为今日“北土城”之由来。</p>
<p>二、乱逛路线：</p>
<p>和义门——高粱桥——转河——肃清门瓮城遗址——蓟门烟树——土城西北角——花园路水关遗址</p>
<p> </p>
<p>三、沿线趣景：</p>
<p>1.和义门</p>
<p>和义门，也就是著名的西直门（北京人忍不住唠叨一句，不加儿话音！）。原址位于今西直门立交桥。这里本应是土城遗迹的起点。文革期间拆除西直门的时候，意外的在其瓮城包砖内部发现了保存完好的元代拱门遗迹。可惜发现在那样一个疯狂的时代，连最基本的测量都没做就被破了四旧。传世的仅有几张照片。</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.xnpic.com/fmn050/20110511/0900/b_large_dfRm_49780000b2e85c70.jpg"/></p>
<p>和义门遗迹</p>
<p> </p>
<p>2.高粱桥</p>
<p>又叫“高亮桥”，始建于元代至元二十九年(1292)，是旧时西直门外通向西北的必经之路。</p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">原来在桥的南北各有一座牌楼，南牌楼南北额分别为</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">长源</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>”、</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">永泽</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">，北牌坊南北额分别为<span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">广润</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>”、</span></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>“</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">姿安</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times new=" lang="EN-US" mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; New? 宋体? mso-fareast-font-family: AR-SA; 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt; FONT-SIZE: 0.3pt; LETTER-SPACING:>”</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New">。</span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New"></span> </p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; LETTER-SPACING: 0.3pt; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; ?Times mso-bidi-font-family: mso-hansi-font-family: New? new="New"></span>它的得名有两说。</p>
<p>一是因横跨“高粱河”而得名；高粱河旧河道从此向东南通向天安门广场一带，后来被人工改道，与北京护城河相连。北宋初年著名的高粱河大战据说就发生在天安门一带。（北京人又要唠叨两句：每当读史读到这一段，我就有一种释然感。当年宋太宗北伐失利，便将幽州城，也就是北京城里的人口全部迁往内地。从那时起，北京就没有本地人了。所以，作为一个当代北京人，就算你爷爷不是外地人，你爷爷的爷爷的爷爷的爷爷的爷爷的爷爷的爷爷。。。。。。。的爷爷也一定是外地人。所以，咱也就没有理由对外地人有什么布满了。不如抽出指责外地人的时间，好好琢磨琢磨怎么传承老北京文化吧。）</p>
<p>二是由“高亮赶海”的传说而得名。（有兴趣的童鞋请百度之，我就不啰嗦了。。。。。。）</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn053/20110511/0905/b_large_GVC8_49780000b4315c70.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn055/20110511/0905/b_large_e9cz_3e640000b2055c71.jpg"/></p>
<p>水闸</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>3.转河碉堡</p>
<p>转河，就是明清北护城河从积水潭到西直门之间的一段“几”字形河道。这里原是一片汪洋，名为“太平湖”（老舍就是跳太平湖死的），后来修地铁的时候填平了改作车辆段，太平湖水系被改造成转河，连接北护城河与高粱河。河道两侧分布着几个混凝土碉堡。听附近钓鱼的老人说，这几个碉堡是当年傅作义为了抵挡解放军攻城而建的城防工事。</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn052/20110511/0910/b_large_u4I2_5b550000c1b15c44.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn055/20110511/0910/b_large_HiJx_5a100004b6555c72.jpg"/></p>
<p> </p>
<p>4.肃清门瓮城遗址</p>
<p>肃清门是元大都的西北城门，也是地面现存唯一一处元大都城门遗迹。位于明光桥西南，只剩下半个瓮城。肃清门内大街即今天的学院南路东段。遗址再往北，就是土城了。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn054/20110511/0955/b_large_dpMd_2dd5000420975c42.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrfmn.com/fmn047/20110511/0955/b_large_XgG0_5b550000d28b5c44.jpg"/></p>
<p> </p>
<p>5.蓟门烟树</p>
<p>沿土城城垣向北，过蓟门桥不远就是燕京八景之一——蓟门烟树。旧时景致本是一派田园风光，夕阳西下时分，于土城上北望，在绿色的海洋中升起几道农家的炊烟。“烟树”就是树林中的炊烟。</p>
<p>如今，在城垣上树立了仿古石碑，上书乾隆御笔“蓟门烟树”四字。</p>
<p>不知哪里出土的佛像，放在墙顶。</p>
<p>但是，烟变成了汽车尾气，树变成了水泥森林。。。。。。。</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrfmn.com/fmn051/20110511/0910/b_large_IuhT_482800000a575c6f.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrfmn.com/fmn046/20110511/0910/b_large_l5PR_64eb0002b82e5c40.jpg"/></p>
<p> </p>
<p>6.城墙西北角</p>
<p>元大都四角原有角楼，东南角楼的位置大约在东二环古观象台一带。如今仅西北角残存有夯土高台，仍是北土城的制高点。</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn052/20110511/0925/b_large_VWl4_2ef5000418f75c43.jpg"/><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrfmn.com/fmn051/20110511/0910/b_large_ucNJ_43aa0009e81f5c74.jpg"/> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>7.北垣马面</p>
<p>马面是突出于城墙外部的“凸”字形防御设施，用于从侧面攻击登城的敌人。因窄长如马面而得名。北土城西北段仍依稀可见数个马面。但因为墙体上种满了树，所以从照片上看不太清。附一张明城墙的马面作为说明。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.xnpic.com/fmn050/20110511/0920/b_large_AlAW_49780000b9665c70.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.xnpic.com/fmn050/20110511/0915/b_large_kAQZ_2eeb0002b0345c43.jpg"/></p>
<p> </p>
<p>8.水关遗址</p>
<p>建国后中科院曾对大都做过一次较为全面的考察和钻探，在北土城上发现了三处水关痕迹。其中位于花园路东的这一处保存最为完整，内部有铁闸门。但长期以来被狗屎人尿和雨水各种腐蚀，21世纪初才被保护起来。</p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn052/20110511/0920/b_large_TwBx_496600004a3c5c70.jpg"/></p>
<p><img alt="" src="http://fmn.rrimg.com/fmn052/20110511/0920/b_large_uvX1_2eeb0002b0735c43.jpg"/></p>
<p> </p><br/>
[此贴子已经被作者于2011-5-17 16:21:38编辑过] 除最后一张外，其他照片都看不到 要把图片上传到老北京网，人人等其他网站对图片都有外链的限制。 <div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><b>以下是引用<i>眼底云烟</i>在2011-5-17 16:38:00的发言：</b><br/><font class="Apple-style-span" size="5">
除最后一张外，其他照片都看不到
</font></div><div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder"><font class="Apple-style-span" size="5">没错！</font></div><p></p> 都看的到，多谢楼主分享！ 多谢分享~~ 多谢楼主，学习了。
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