喜爱豆汁意犹未尽
<strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">《喜爱豆汁儿意犹未尽》</span></strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"><br/></span><strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">说起北京的豆汁儿还真是缘分，从记事起就跟着奶奶去西花市火神庙喝豆汁儿，这一喝差不多就几十年了，西花市火神庙那豆汁儿正宗地道，记忆中的豆汁摊开在山门旁的门洞里，旁边还有一个</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">“</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">张东海命馆</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">”</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">。后来火神庙山门拆了豆汁摊也就没了，虽然后来在旁边开了家小吃店有豆汁儿，那味就差多了。还有一家不能不说，坐落在磁器口东南角，崇文区少年之家街别儿的</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">“</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">锦馨</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">” </span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">豆汁铺，老字号四九城有名铺面不大，人气不小。五行八作、三教九流、达官显贵都来此喝这口，那叫一个</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">“</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">爽</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">”</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">，我至今想起还是意犹未尽。北京城小吃有</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">200</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">多种、灌肠、爆肚、茶汤、豆汁、炒疙瘩、炸油饼以及云豆卷、豌豆黄等等数不胜数，其中豆汁当推特色第一。这是用绿豆粉发酵后，用其汁煮成，味道酸怪，外地人不易接受，而老北京对他却情有独钟。其实在豆汁儿的</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">“</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">考验</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">”</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">下，不少真真正正的北京人也败下阵来：委实接受不了，甭说喝，看着别人喝得有滋有味的样子，都因受不了豆汁儿冲鼻子的味儿而心里不舒坦。</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </span></strong><b><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"><br/><br/></span><strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">豆汁下面一定要加一个儿字，若没有这个轻读的语尾，听者就会不明白你的语音而生误解。</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </span></strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"><br/><br/></span><strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">梁实秋先生《雅舍谈吃》说：豆汁儿之妙，一在酸，酸中带馊腐的怪味。二在烫，只能吸溜吸溜地喝，不能大口猛灌。三在咸菜的辣，辣得舌尖发麻。越辣越喝，越喝越烫，最后是满头大汗。我小时候在夏天喝豆汁儿，是先脱光脊梁，然后才喝，等到汗落再穿上衣服。豆汁儿最早分甜、酸、酸甜三种。当天做成的豆汁儿是甜味，放到第二天，就变成酸甜，第三天则只酸不甜。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">“</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">豆汁粥</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">”</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">，有三种做法：勾面儿（豆汁熬熟后，少许纯绿豆粉调成稀糊，对在豆汁里，这种豆汁味道清甜）、下米（在豆汁里加入一碗米同熬，这种豆汁甜而酸）、清熬（不加任何别的原料，只清熬豆汁，这种豆汁只有酸味，过去街头豆汁挑子上所售的豆汁，便是这种）。</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </span></strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"><br/></span><strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">据单好豆汁儿这口儿者称，一碗豆汁儿加上一碟儿辣咸菜丝儿、来俩焦圈，嘿！酸、辣、甜、咸四味，独没有苦味，是为人生的期盼。</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </span></strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"><br/></span><strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">豆汁儿还有个孪生兄弟：麻豆腐，是制豆汁儿时的豆渣，可以加羊尾巴油、青豆嘴儿、腌雪里红炒熟，泼辣椒油，郭德纲在相声中说看看是不是北京人灌碗豆汁就能试出来，虽说是比喻可喜爱这一口儿的北京人也颇多，不少时尚的年轻人也逐渐接受和喜欢上豆汁了，喝豆汁的过程第一次感觉是喝药，第二次就是有点像品茶，第三次就是喝豆汁的感觉。说真的能够享受老北京这豆汁儿和麻豆腐的主，您那口福不浅，缘分啊！</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 13.5pt; COLOR: #009933; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New="New"Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </span></strong></b><br/><br/> 我喜欢喝.现在哪里的豆汁味道还酸正宗? <p>拜读。赞同。再次推荐虎坊桥东路北南来顺分号的豆汁儿。还有就是买牛街东输入胡同路北老店的生汁儿自己熬。顺与了然客先生切磋，北京人所说的JIEBIEER的文字就是“隔壁”，如同“隔山”的口语为JIE山一样，似不必写作“街别儿”。</p> 不知为什么，我异常厌恶塑料餐具。 照片好啊！ <p>上小学的时候住在培新街，经常让父母带着去喝豆汁儿，当时锦馨里的肉饼和咸菜是给我留下印象最深的。虽然现在天坛北门的老磁器口豆汁店也很不错，但是以前的感觉没了。对了，当时好像还有长条凳</p> <p>1：云豆卷---芸豆卷儿</p><p>2：对他却情有独钟---这里的代词 他 字用法也值得商榷。</p>
<p>3：对在豆汁里---兑</p>
<p>4：雪里红---雪里蕻</p>
<p>5：说真的能够享受老北京这豆汁儿和麻豆腐的主---这里的 主 必须儿化，否则真容易产生歧义。</p>
<p>---------------</p>
<p>另外，左慈戏曹先生所说 隔壁儿 的叙述完全正确，感谢您！</p>
<p>---------------</p>
<p>感谢楼主，希望您常来！</p> <p>同意楼主说的“喝豆汁是缘分”，喜欢豆汁的口味那也是要缘分的，感觉喝豆汁能感觉象是喝药或者泔水的，那决不是有缘人。</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>俺没成家以前，祖辈上就没人来过北京，第一次喝豆汁儿，身体就很受用，酸而回甜，有股特别的味儿。那是十年前在崇文门附近一家店里买回自己煮熟喝的，也不知为何当时没现成的。仅仅是酸的豆汁儿一定是煮熟后兑了水的。</p> <p>照片上的豆汁儿，看着就不是地道的老北京豆汁儿。</p>
<p>现在北京的卖豆汁儿的店铺，怕人家说他的豆汁儿太稀，所以就在豆汁儿里加些“添加剂”，盛在碗里稠乎乎的，看着好看，就是没有豆汁儿的“爽”劲。最近我的小儿子又给我从北京带回来一塑料桶豆汁儿，倒出来一看，稠乎乎的，黄绿色，没有豆汁儿味，倒像是一碗面茶。可是为什么一些北京的年轻人都说好呢？原因就在他们没有喝过老北京的原汁原味的豆汁儿，从一开始就是喝的这种“面茶”，所以就以为豆汁儿就是这个味儿。</p>
<p>也难怪，开豆汁儿店的老板，不是温州人就是河南人，就算是北京人开的店，老板自己也没喝过原汁原味的老北京豆汁儿，再加上利润最大化的驱使，您还能喝到原汁原味儿的豆汁儿吗！</p>
页:
[1]