万佛堂无缘妙相 孔水洞倾心花塔（上）
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">原文地址：<font face="Verdana"><a href="http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4e4f18cf0100dxf7.html">http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4e4f18cf0100dxf7.html</a></font></span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"></span> </p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="楷体_GB2312" size="3">《缁衣行走志》</font></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"></span> </p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">诗曰：</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"> 寒壁深深隐</span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">万佛，千年法相废捉摸。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr> 一朝祈雨金龙现，孔水洞前不闻波。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr> <wbr></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman"> <wbr></font></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">这么久了，缁衣人总算去了趟万佛堂。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman">6</font></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">月</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman">25</font></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">日，上午考完试，便自由了。几日来的北京，天气热得厉害，出门本是难以想象的事，可是终究憋得慌，十分想走走。转念想到，万佛堂的位置在山阴，而公交又必定开空调，出行并不见得很困难，于是终在</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman">3</font></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">点的时候揣着相机启程。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">此时，因为天气的缘故，大街上正人迹寥寥，公交车一路疾驰，遇站不用停，很快就到了磁家务。在万佛堂站下车，经打听后钻进一条小巷，行走不远即隔着房顶看见辽代花塔的上部——正如在青龙湖发现豆各庄塔时的情形。出了狭仄的小巷，跨入一个大院，迎面便是掩映在树木丛中的万佛堂和一辽一元对峙着的两座古塔——倚靠在一脉低矮的山丘脚下，再远处则是耸入云雾的崇山巨岭。 <wbr></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"> <wbr></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt" align="center"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><strong><font style="FONT-SIZE: 18px"><a href="http://photo.blog.sina.com.cn/showpic.html#blogid=4e4f18cf0100dxf7&url=http://static13.photo.sina.com.cn/orignal/4e4f18cf46d36cbd48fec&690" target="_blank"></a></font></strong></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt" align="center"> <wbr></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><strong><font style="FONT-SIZE: 18px">万佛堂</font></strong></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">万佛堂踞坐于孔水洞上方，位于云蒙山的东北麓。现今的万佛堂，是明万历年间重修的无梁殿，门楣上刻有“大历古迹万佛龙泉宝殿”题额，左右有明清的遗碑。万佛堂有名的是殿内墙壁上镶嵌的唐代汉白玉浮雕，表现了万佛法会的恢弘场面，是珍贵精美的文物，也是万佛堂名称的由来。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">然而，这样的美妙场景却不能够轻易见着，走到门前，只见上下两把铁锁紧紧封闭着木板殿门，将游人阻挡在外。据说附近有两位掌握钥匙的管理员，可是匆匆而来的游者又怎么去寻找到他们开启这神秘之门呢？门缝和窗隙透出殿内的阴冷，在大热天里仍让人惊寒；试图从罅隙看进去，却满眼是漆黑。来万佛堂而不能一窥法会图的精彩，实在是可惜的事情，一墙之隔的距离如此遥远！</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">殿后是陡峭的悬崖，崖壁上不经意地挂着几组乱藤，枝叶葱茏。这便显出了万佛堂的幽野之趣。左侧下方平地上，凿开山岩体向内打通了一条隧道，门口用铁栏锁住，深邃黑暗不可测。这是矿厂的工业隧道，洞口还留有“常备不懈”四字警语。不寻常的是，站在洞前十数米以外，就能感受到洞内送出来的侵人凉气——一种大地才拥有的深沉的寒意，比万佛堂内透出来的更加慑人。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">从殿下斜伸出来的就是孔水洞水道，干了，但看到洞口拱券上方俯视水道的狰狞的镇水兽，仿佛能想象出这小小的出口里曾经怎样从大山内部吐出汩汩的泉流来。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">关于孔水洞，倒有许多有趣的故事值得谈。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"> <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><a href="http://photo.blog.sina.com.cn/showpic.html#blogid=4e4f18cf0100dxf7&url=http://static9.photo.sina.com.cn/orignal/4e4f18cf46d36d4bdf7a8&690" target="_blank"></a></span> <wbr></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman"> <wbr></font></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><font style="FONT-SIZE: 18px"><strong>孔水洞</strong></font></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">郦道元之《水经注》中记载：</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman">“</font></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">（大防）岭之东首山崖有石穴东北洞开，高广四五丈，入穴，转更崇深，穴中有水。耆旧传言，昔有沙门释惠弥者，好精物隐，尝篝火探之，傍水入穴三里有余，穴分为二：一穴殊小，西北出，不知趣诣。一穴西南出，入水迳五六日方还，又不测穷深。其水夏冷冬暖，春秋有白鱼出入，数日而返。人有采食者，美珍常味，盖亦丙穴嘉鱼之类也。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><font face="Times New="New"Roman">”</font></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">孔水洞与著名的溶洞石花洞相去不远，料想内部景观与石花洞类似，也是瑰怪奇丽的喀斯特胜景。石花洞我不曾去过，只去过上方山的云水洞，洞内或开或阖、忽高忽低，垂钟隆乳、如梦似幻的景象我至今记忆犹新。《水经注》中记述僧人惠弥篝火访洞，五六天才回来，可以想见其间广阔深邃之甚，暗泉长流，洞天曲折，该是多么奇妙的动人境界！</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">“孔水泛舟”曾被衍化为房山八景之一。据说入洞之后不远就能看到隋代的佛像、金代题刻等遗迹，向前行会遇到一个悬崖，下面深不可测。似乎几年前还有人乘矿厂内部之便做过洞中之游，而近年也曾有古物爱好者下水道入洞探幽——可是水道之深过人头顶，下面也没有明显的可供攀援之物，我没有贸然下去。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times new="new"roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt">二十多年前，这里水涸的时候，出土了七条金龙。金龙是唐开元年间留下的，</span><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: ??; mso-hansi-font-family: ??">唐玄宗曾派遣吕慎盈三次来此祈雨，投下了金龙和玉壁。孔水洞可能还是房山石经的早期开凿地点之一。</span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"> <wbr></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt" align="center"><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: ??; mso-hansi-font-family: ??"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><a href="http://photo.blog.sina.com.cn/showpic.html#blogid=4e4f18cf0100dxf7&url=http://static9.photo.sina.com.cn/orignal/4e4f18cf46d36d4bdf7a8&690" target="_blank"></a></span></span></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"> <wbr></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0cm="0cm"0cm="0cm"0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21.75pt"><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: ??; mso-hansi-font-family: ??">预知辽代花塔之详情，请阅《<a href="http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4e4f18cf0100dxf7.html">万佛堂无缘妙相 <wbr> 孔水洞倾心花塔</a>（下）》。</span></p> 不错.
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